MILLIPUT PRESS MOULDS
Firstly, I recommend Milliput over GW's Green Stuff. The last pack of
Milliput I bought cost about 3 quid for 113 grams. Green Stuff costs 6 quid
for 20 grams. Do the maths on that.
Secondly, apart from Milliput, you will need
- a good original piece from a GW set
- talcum powder to stop the mould sticking
- some paperclips to make guide pins
- some thin cardboard to make the mould halves
- some sticky tape to build the mould halves
- some cocktail sticks
- a modelling knife
- a largish soft brush that you don't need any more
Thirdly, these press moulds work best on SMALL parts. I've made bolt
pistols, flamers, a variety of heavy weapons and the Necron scarabs. I
don't know how well this would work on larger pieces.
Fourthly, only use this if you need to make (or plan to make) lots of
copies. It's a lot of effort to make a single copy. However, once the mould
is made, it can be kept for ages and reused loads of times. Some of the
moulds I have made are over 10 years old.
B) Mould-making step-by-step guide
- Use the thin card to make two small, flat trays for each half of the
mould. These can be about 5mm deep and big enough for the whole piece with
room around the edge for the guide pins (later). Fix these little boxes with
the sticky tape.
- Mix up enough Milliput to fill both flat trays and press the putty in
place. Try to get the surfaces as flat as possible either with a roller
or by rubbing on the table top (but dust both the mould and table with talc
- Dust each surface with talc. Press the two halves together, gently but
firmly, and hold up to the light. There shouldn't be any light leaking
through the mould.
- Separate the two halves of the mould. The talc should make this easy.
- Dust one half of the mould with talc. Then dust the original piece with
- Press the original piece into one half of the mould. Only press HALF of
the piece into the Milliput. This will make one side of the copy.
- Gently squeeze the mould and use something flat like the blade of the
modelling knife to make sure the Milliput goes right up to the edge of the
- The original piece should still be in the mould. Dust the mould and the
original with more talc and gently lever the original from the mould (the
point of a cocktail stick is good for this).
- You should now have half the mould with an impression of one side of the
- Repeat steps 4 - 7 for the other half of the original in the other half
of the mould. This will give you two mirrored halves of the original piece
impressed into the Milliput.
- Dust down both halves of the mould and the original piece. Place the
original back into one half of the mould and close the other half of the
mould over it.
- Gently squeeze the two halves of the mould together around the original.
Hold the mould up to the light. There shouldn't be any light leaking
through the mould.
- Separate the two halves of the mould and repeat the above steps a few
times to ensure the piece comes free easily.
- Stop at this point. Let the mould set overnight if possible.
- When the mould has set, place the original back in the mould and squeeze
the two halves together.
- Drill right through the corners of both halves of the mould, well away
from the original piece. A 1mm drill bit will be best for this.
- Use paperclips bent into an L shape to go through the holes you just
drilled. Secure the clips to the mould with sticky tape. These clips form
guide pins to ensure both halves of the mould are correctly lined up when
making new pieces.
The mould is now ready to use.
C) Using the mould step-by-step guide
- Mix up some Milliput. Tear off a small blob, enough for one piece. Dust
this down with talc.
- Dust down both halves of the mould with talc.
- Place the small blob onto one half of the mould and gently press into
place. If the mould is complex (e.g. a boltgun with distinct magazine)
make sure that the blob of Milliput fits the whole shape.
- Dust down the Milliput with more talc.
- Press the other half of the mould down onto the Milliput. Use the
paperclip guide pins to line up the two halves and press down firmly.
- Gently separate the two halves of the mould. You'll see where excess
Milliput has leaked from the impression of the original onto the mould.
- Use a cocktail stick to trim away the excess Milliput (which can be reused).
DO NOT use a modelling knife as this will cut into the mould itself and
spoil the quality of copies.
- Dust down the mould with talc and press the two halves together again.
- Repeat steps 3 - 8 two or three times. After a few attempts you may find
that the copy is coming free of the mould by itself. If necessary, use the
cocktail stick to gently prise the copy from the mould. You may find that,
as the Milliput begins to set, this step becomes easier and the copy comes
free from the mould with less effort.
- Set the copy aside to set, preferably overnight. If it has bent slightly
when being removed from the mould, gently straighten it out by hand.
- To make more copies, repeat the above steps.
- When the copies have set, use a modelling knife and/or needle files to
clean up any rough edges ready for painting and including with your other